Escaping Taormina Crowds: Let’s Talk About the First Thing That Pops Up

Why Escaping Taormina Crowds Is Worth It

Taormina is a breathtaking destination filled with energy and life. That said, if you’re visiting during peak season and craving a pause from the crowds, escaping Taormina crowds can be as simple as heading just uphill to Castelmola.

Perched above Taormina, this charming village is an easy 8-minute car ride or public bus trip away (parking can be tricky, so plan accordingly). If you’re feeling ambitious, there’s also a 45-minute uphill walk along the old donkey trail, a workout, but a rewarding one.

Castelmola is wonderfully quaint. Think small bars, cozy restaurants, and adorable boutiques selling locally crafted goods. A steady breeze and sweeping views of the Ionian Sea, Taormina, and Mount Etna make wandering the narrow alleys feel like stepping back in time, which, as we know, I love. I’m always here for a good alley.

While the views are clearly one of Castelmola’s biggest draws, this quiet Sicilian town has more depth than you might expect. Exploring the remains of the original “castle” (Castel = castle) brings you to the summit of Mount Tauro overlooking the village. There isn’t much left of the structure itself, but standing nearly 2,000 feet above sea level, it’s easy to imagine how powerful this vantage point once was. The 360-degree views alone make the climb worth it.

In the late 1800s, Castelmola and Taormina became some of the first Mediterranean destinations to openly welcome LGBTQ+ travelers. Poets, artists, and writers were drawn here for the freedom, acceptance, and bohemian lifestyle the area represented. You’ll still see traces of this history today, including shops displaying male nude portraits by Wilhelm von Gloeden, a 19th-century German photographer whose work was inspired by classical Greek sculpture and featured local men as his subjects.

Interestingly, some locals told me this part of the town’s history isn’t always openly highlighted, despite being an important piece of its cultural past. That historical openness is what makes the town’s famously cheeky stop, Bar Turrisi, feel less shocking and more… oddly fitting.

Bar Turrisi Front Door

Bar Turrisi in Castelmola

Before anyone clutches their pearls, let’s pause for a second. The phallic decor here isn’t meant to be crude or vulgar (though yes, I am immature and will laugh). Once you understand the context, it actually makes sense.

Bar Turrisi traces its theme back to its founder, Salvatore Turrisi, who had a deep interest in Ancient Greek history, specifically the cult of Priapus, the Greek god associated with fertility. In ancient cultures, these symbols weren’t seen as obscene, but as representations of power, protection, and good fortune. Over time, Salvatore’s collection grew, largely thanks to gifts from friends… which I can only imagine made birthdays very interesting.

Today, it’s a kitschy, fun place to stop for a drink or bite while exploring Castelmola. If you go, try the local almond wine, nspired by Greek tradition and, yes, served in a glass that stays on theme.